Happy Pancakes

This Asian "crepe," folded like an omelets, then drizzled with vibrant, spicy Nuoc Cham, never fails to please. Maybe they're called Happy Pancakes because of the instant elation they arouse in people. They are often called Banh Xeo. The batter is very simple, just rice flour and water; the trick is in keeping the temperature constantly high throughout the cooking process. Covering the pancake as it cooks creates the distinctive hard crust on the bottom. A nonstick skillet works best.

Cooking Method

Prepare the Nuoc Cham Dipping Sauce and set aside.

In a medium bowl, whisk together the rice flour and 2 cups water.

Add the turmeric and scallion and mix well.
Set the batter aside.
The batter keeps, covered, in the refrigerator for up to 3 days.

In a large nonstick skillet, heat 1½ tablespoons of the oil over high heat.

Add 3 slices of pork, 3 shrimp, a few slices of onion, and 1 sliced mushroom.
Season with salt and pepper and cook until the onion starts to brown lightly, about 1 minutes.
Stir the rice flour batter again and ladle ⅓ cup of it into the pan.
Tilt the pan to distribute the batter evenly.
Keep the heat high, cover, and cook until the sides of the pancake turn deep brown and curl up, about 3 to 4 minutes.
Scatter ¼ cup of the bean sprouts over the pancake, fold it in half, and slide it onto a warm platter.
Keep warm in a low oven while you make pancakes with the remaining ingredients.

Serve the pancakes with the Nuoc Cham on the side. Eat with a knife and fork.

SUGGESTIONS: Don't feel bound to using all the filling ingredients listed above, for this dish originated when there was actually not much food in the house. You can compose a plain happy pancake with just the browned onions, then fill it with bean sprouts, making a vegetarian combination. Or, use only one protein, either pork or shrimp, if that's all you have.

The amount the batter makes and the step of keeping the pancakes in a warm oven until all are cooked is more to serve the needs of a dinner party.